每年七、八月,當角馬大遷徙的主力軍踏上肯尼亞西南部的馬賽馬拉時,東南部海域也正迎來一群神秘的海洋巨獸——座頭鯨。一邊是黃土喧囂的非洲草原,一邊是藍玉般浩渺的印度洋;一邊是適者生存的驚心動魄,一邊是壯闊澎湃的猛獸賣萌。角馬大遷徙和座頭鯨大遷徙,Humpback Whale Migration,這兩場被合稱為Twin Migration的大遷徙,堪稱肯尼亞不容錯過的“海陸雙料”。
座頭鯨的季節性遷徙路線十分固定,每年七、八、九月,這支跋涉了5000多公里的海上巨擎都會如期到達肯尼亞東部海域。于是前來追尋這場令人震撼的旅程,成為許多人的top 3選擇之一。觀鯨期有時會一直持續到十月甚至年底,在此期間,在肯尼亞的蒙巴薩、迪亞尼、馬林迪、拉穆島都有機會見到座頭鯨本尊。而最佳觀鯨點非海濱小鎮瓦塔木(Watamu)莫屬。
想要一次看完肯尼亞的“海陸雙料”,你可以從內羅畢搭乘航班飛往馬賽馬拉,花一兩天時間觀賞角馬大遷徙后,再前往瓦塔木觀鯨。為了確保座頭鯨們不受船只干擾,大多數觀鯨之旅都需要資深向導的指引。故而瓦塔木小鎮上的多家酒店都提供觀鯨游覽,只需提前預約即可。從柔軟的瓦塔木海灘出發,駛過清澈的海面,坐在觀鯨船上的你,看著重量級的座頭鯨們突然一躍而起,再以背部入水激起巨大浪花,這將是一段讓人著迷的旅途。
座頭鯨的每一次遷徙,都猶如史詩般令人震撼。下次來肯尼亞瓦塔木,見證一場“鯨奇物語”,開啟一段壯麗的旅程。
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